How to Repair and Restore an Enamel Mora Clock Face

A traditional Mora clock face is usually made from thin iron or copper, coated with fired vitreous enamel.

This enamel is essentially powdered glass that has been melted onto the metal at very high temperature.

Over 150–250 years, that enamel can crack, lift, or flake, usually because moisture crept underneath or the metal expanded and contracted over time.

Once enamel flakes off, you cannot truly “re-enamel” the dial without industrial kilns and specialist equipment.

So restoration is about stabilising the damage, visually reintegrating the loss, and protecting the dial, not making it look factory-new.

Done well, the repair should be reversible, subtle, and sympathetic — exactly what collectors and museums want.

Buy your mora clock here

Before you start: an important mindset

• Do not aim for perfection - Mora clocks are valued for honesty and age. A slightly imperfect repair is better than an over-restored face.

  
  

• Never sand aggressively or strip the dial - That permanently destroys originality.

  
  

• Work slowly - Most damage comes from rushing.

  
  

If the dial has large missing sections, deep rust underneath, or historical hand-painted numerals you’re unsure about, stop and consult a specialist.

Buy your mora clock here

Materials you will need

Here is a conservation-safe materials list used by restorers:

Cleaning & preparation

• Distilled water

• Cotton buds (lint-free)

• Soft artist’s brush

• Isopropyl alcohol (90%+)

  
  

Stabilisation

• Rust converter (tannic-acid based, non-oily)

• Fine artist’s scalpel or wooden cocktail stick

  
  

Filling losses

• Conservation-grade epoxy or enamel filler (e.g. HXTAL NYL-1 or a fine white epoxy)

• Glass palette or tile for mixing

• Fine palette knife or toothpick

  
  

Colour matching

• Artist’s acrylic paints (titanium white, raw umber, yellow ochre, ivory black)

• Fine sable brushes (000–0)

  
  

Protection

• Clear conservation varnish (satin or very low gloss)

• UV-stable, reversible varnish preferred

  
  

Buy your mora clock here

Step-by-step restoration process

Step 1: Remove and inspect the dial

Carefully remove the clock hands and dial. Photograph everything before you start. This gives you a reference and protects you if you ever sell the clock.

Lay the dial flat on a padded surface and identify:

• Loose enamel still attached

• Bare metal areas

• Rust staining creeping under intact enamel

Step 2: Clean — gently

Using distilled water and cotton buds, lightly clean the surface. This removes dirt but won’t react with the enamel.For greasy deposits, use very small amounts of isopropyl alcohol — never flood the surface.

Let the dial dry fully.

Step 3: Stabilise flaking enamel

This step is critical.

If you see enamel that is lifting but not yet lost, carefully wick a tiny amount of conservation epoxy underneath using a cocktail stick. Press gently and leave to cure. This stops further loss and preserves originality.

Never pry enamel off just because it looks loose.

Buy your mora clock here

Step 4: Treat exposed metal

Where enamel is already gone, you’ll often see light rust. Use:

• A dry brush or wooden tool to remove loose rust

• A tiny amount of rust converter to neutralise what remains

Do not over-apply. The goal is stability, not stripping.

Buy your mora clock here

Step 5: Fill missing enamel areas

Mix a small amount of white epoxy or enamel filler. Apply it only to the missing areas, slightly below the surrounding enamel surface.

Why below? Because original enamel has a subtle depth and gloss — if you fill it flush, it will look artificial.

Allow to cure completely (often 24 hours).

Step 6: Colour matching (the art part)

This is where patience pays off.

Most Mora clock faces are not pure white. They usually lean:

• Slightly warm

• Slightly creamy or greyed

• Often darker near numerals

Mix acrylic paints carefully and test on scrap before touching the dial. Apply thin layers, letting each dry.

Do not repaint numerals unless absolutely necessary. Original hand-painted numbers are part of the clock’s soul.

Step 7: Final protection

Once everything is fully dry, apply a very light coat of clear conservation varnish. This:

• Unifies sheen

• Protects repairs

• Prevents future moisture ingress

Avoid high gloss — Mora dials should look softly aged, not shiny.

Buy your mora clock here

Common mistakes to avoid

• Using automotive filler or household enamel paint

• Over-cleaning and removing original surface patina

• Making repairs too white or too flat

• Spraying lacquer over the entire dial

Each of these will reduce value rather than improve it.

Buy your mora clock here